Maybe Buddhism is the exception. As far as I know Buddha never called for the mass slaughter of non believers. A Buddhist friend of mine in Japan told me that Buddhism is not a religion, but a philosophy. Not really understanding the difference I express a desire to know more. She gave me a book entitled "Buddhism for Catholics". I tried. I managed to get through the sound of one hand clapping. Then it asked me to conjure up the smell of the color blue. I gave up. I could not get it. Maybe it was because I was not really a Christmas anyway.
My favorite bartender told me one night that he had to make his annual pilgrimage to The Virgin of Talpa. He explained that when his baby boy was so sick, he prayed to her and promised to go to Talpa once a year and bring her flowers if he recovered. He asked if I wanted to go with them. My first reaction was that it would be sacrilegious for me to go, but then I thought "What the Hell do I care?" I have wanted to visit some of the small towns around here, and he said we would stop in Mascota for breakfast. I have heard what a beautiful colonial town Mascota was, so I decided to go. Then I thought about riding in the back seat for two hours with a five year old.
While I was waiting outside my apartment for Filipe to pick me up, I was joined with two more Mexican friends. That would make five adults and one child in the car. I opted for the front passenger seat. I will say that Ian was a very well behaved five year old. He appeared to be a little intimidated or maybe afraid of me. Maybe because I was a gringo or maybe I was the oldest person he had ever met. In any case, I decided it was in my best interest allow him to continue with that thought. It was a long arduous trip anyway. We made a stop on the way to Mascota at a rest stop just before crossing a huge spanned bridge. If it looks like a real highway, it is not! It is a narrow two lane roads that winds up and down the mountains. The rest stop sold drinks, snacks and had bath rooms. But no water! I realized that the toilet did not flush, but did not discover the water problem until I had lathered my hands with liquid soap. There were no towels either. So I had to go all the way to Mascota with soap drying on hands. Where is Lily Pons when you need her? After two hours we arrived at Mascota.
It is a very charming little town as I had been told. Judging from the downtown buildings, I would judge that it was a more once a very prosperous town. The building are more stately and elegant than anything in old Vallarta. I think it is also older. Most buildings have very tall windows and doors with a cornice on top. It is also much cleaner with trash barrels everywhere (no garbage on the corners like Vallarta). There were many beautiful restaurants with lots of potted flowers. But we did not eat at one of them. Instead we ate at a small Mexican restaurant in the market. After looking at the menu, I decided a club sandwich would be the safest to order. It was delicious and huge. It not only had the usual ingredients, but had shredded lettuce, cumbers and peppers. Your local country club would never recognize it. We toured the city and the ruins of an old church that looked much like what remains of the Mission of San Juan Capistrano.
After another hour we arrived above Talpa. There is a look out tower which overlooks the valley. I managed the hundred or so steps to the top. Talpa looked more like old Vallarta, but cleaner. We first visited the Church to the Virgin. The story I was told was that in the early 1800's a poor Indian (recently converted to Catholicisms). Found a small statue of the Virgin Mary either in or near a river (not really clear which). He took her back to his home in Mascota, that night she went back to Talpa. He brought her back several times, but each time she managed to return to Talpa. He told his friends about it and they said it was just a doll and he was crazy (WELL ??) But somehow he managed to convince The Church and it was declared a miracle and he was made a saint. (Do not ask what I think about this). All the way from Mascota to Talpa there is a sidewalk beside the road with stone replicas of the virgin where people make the pilgrimage, some on their knees. I was told that behind the church was a museum that would explain the entire legend to me. But it was closed.
The original doll (or Virgin) is the small gold statue at the top of the altar. The church is quite beautiful, but I could not get a good close of of The Virgin, I took a picture of one of the many replicas that are sold in shops surrounding the square. I watched my friend and his family approach the altar, praying and offering the flowers. I was happy they did not made the trek on their knees as many do, but was impressed with their pious prayers. For a brief moment I wondered if I would be better off if I did believe in something, but I do not. When I learn more about the other Virgins of Jalisco, you will be the first to know.
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