Now the 3rd of May is the biggest day of the year in my little neighborhood. It is called the May Festival even though most of it takes place in April, but the finally is on May 3rd. It is basically a celebration of the founding of the Santa Cruz church across from me. For about two weeks my street is closed to traffic. Carnival rides and booths are set up in the street and run from my block to the river. Directly under my balcony they set up a stage where for 10 or 12 days people perform, some singers, mostly dancers. The cross streets are open until evening when they are closed to put up hundreds of folding chairs in the intersection. I counted over 300 chairs and many nights there were as many more standing. I, of course have the best seats in town. I could sell tickets.
Instead I give a party every 3rd of May. It cannot be as big as my former annual cocktail party for everyone will crowd around the upstairs railing. Also I have no help on that night and I am lazy. I had always hoped my bar tender friend Felipe could come and bring his wife and five year old boy, but he always seems to work on the 3rd. Expecting his family, I asked Richard not to invite his neighbors who have been here the past three years. Then Jennifer told me that her best friend Rikki wanted to bring her family as she had enjoyed it so much the year before. This would bring the total up to twelve. I was not happy but what could I do.
Although the 3rd is the Grand Fiesta, every night there were dancers, singers and bands playing. So a couple of nights I invited a few friends to watch the show. The groups came from all over Mexico and South America. Peru, Chili and Argentina sent dance groups. The schedule said the first group would be from 8:30 to 9:30 and the second group from 9:30 to 10:30. This meant that for the most part the loud music was over by around 11:00. The sound is deafening as they set up speakers as big as a Volkswagen with two groups of three tweeters hanging from a scaffolding. The stage consists of 4 x 4 squares of plywood set in metal frames. Being Mexico, the first night two of the platforms collapsed leaving gaping holes in the dance floor. Somehow the dancers managed to move around them with no one falling in.
Some dance groups were better than others, but all had fantastic costumes. The dancers are not paid a dime, but sponsors pay for their lodging and every night they serve them dinner after the show on tables set up in front of the church. Sponsors are local companies and wealthy patrons of the church and the church charges 5,000 pesos for space for each carnival ride and for the booths. Since they are all set up on city streets, one wonders why the church gets the money. They also plead each night for donations from the audience. So even though the show must cost thousands to put on, the church makes money on it (of course).
One night Jennifer was coming over to watch the show and asked if she could bring a friend. Sure, why not. She brought wine, he did not. I had set out cheese and crackers and after he had devoured most of the cheese, he announced that this was not enough for him so he would have to go out and buy a taco or torta. Fine with me, I was glad to be rid of him. I thought he was a dork. But, he returned and asked if we did this every night. I told him the show goes on every night, but I plan on being gone. Then he announced that he would have to leave early as he had to catch the last bus to Mismaloya. Good ! I told him to just slam the door so it locks when he leaves. As he opened the door he not only found the threshold blocked by costumes, but a girl was standing there in her bra and panties. He closed the door not knowing what to do. I told him to just open the door and push pass her, trying not to step on her costumes. I said, "Dancers are not ashamed or their bodies and not to worry." He did.
The problem with the dressing room even though quite large could not accommodate two groups at once or many nights the dancers laid their costumes on the sidewalk and changed in the street. Also some nights they had tables and chairs set up in the dressing room as well as a large bottle of water and plastic glasses, but not every night. Those elaborate costumes are just lying on the dirty cobble stones. You never know what you will get in Mexico. I loved the show every night, even with all the loud music and stomping dancers. It is so colorful. This year they did not invite the group of Indian dancers who wore only a g-string. I think the priest must have thought it was not good family entertainment. We have conservatives even in Mexico.
The night before my big party Richard called to say they were not coming and I never heard from Felipe. This brought my party down from 12 to 7. Fine with me. Rikki's family consists of her real son Chris and her adopted Mexican boy, who thinks he is a girl and sometimes dresses as one (though not very successfully). Nikki arrived alone with some guacamole and four cans of beer. Jennifer arrived with Brad, and two bottles of red, but he and his partner had had a fight and John flew back to Canada even though they were scheduled to fly out the following day for several weeks in Jamaica. Brad is a nice guy but was not in a festive mood. Rikki said her other kids would come later.
Chris arrived with a girl friend with no food or beverages. I asked what they would like to drink and he looked at the red wine and said, "that will do" With four people drinking red wine, I knew it would not last. I have my own white wine. We were all settled upstairs waiting for the show to start when Chris explained that his girl friend was spending a year traveling with her mother and her mother's boy friend. Next stop was to be Cancun. According to Chris she had just left her home and husband in Paris and was getting a divorce. So mother was taking her around the world. Wouldn't it be nice to invite them! I was so taken back that all I could think to say was, "I only bought two pizzas" He said, not to worry as they didn't need food. (Okay, but what are they going to drink?) Since so many people had cancelled or flaked out, two more would not have mattered that much. But I would rather have people I knew, or at least might see again. Reluctantly I said, "Sure, why not?" I am not a good poker player and I am sure he read my face and what I was thinking. He did call them, but apparently the mother doesn't like to walk far and no cab could get near my house that night so they declined. Rikki's adopted son also never showed. Maybe he could not decide how to dress for the occasion. Chris' girl friend was pretty I guess. She was tall and thin and had that elegant demeanor that the privileged always seem to have. She said almost nothing and spent most of the time on a stool I set up next to the railing. I had the feeling she thought she was slumming and we should be gracious just for her presence. I was not !
In late afternoon they set up the four story fireworks display. They call it the Castillo de Fuego (Castle of Fire). It is an amazing sight. The stage was set up as an altar where the priest would give mass. There was cross behind him and a half naked Jesus next to him. He even went into the masses to hand out the bread crumbs or what ever they are. Also the choir sang and they are really good. I love to listen to them. The dancers were also quite good, costumes amazing but the show was running an hour late. Nothing happens here on time. There is a good reason so few Mexicans wear a watch. They do not care what time it is. Jennifer realized the problem with the wine and went across the street to the tienda to buy another bottle. She stopped by me to tell me she was so upset she could hardly contain herself. I told her not to worry about even though she blamed herself for all the guests were friends of hers. I told her it is one night in my 80 years that will be forgotten tomorrow and it will not happen again, so forget it. She did not and stewed all night. Chris picked up the last empty bottle of wine and looked around. I said, "Oh is that the bottle Jennifer just bought from the tienda?: He got the point and went to buy another one.
Jennifer never goes anywhere without her chihuahua , Pili is a sweet cute little dog that is very well behaved and rarely barks (except at small fluffy white dogs) I think she is afraid they are prettier than she is. . But she is terrified of loud noises. Jennifer arrived after the last of the 7:30 bells. During the festival they first fire off cannons, then send four little boys up to the bell tower where each of them had a ball banging the four huge bells, but the noise is awful. It was Pili's first May Festival and she was not prepared for the constant noise and stomping. Jennifer was so upset she wanted to leave before the fireworks began, but I convinced her to stay. She had to sit under the palapa with Pili in her arms but could still see the fantastic display. The tower actually revolves and then at the end the top shoots up into the sky with lots of bursting fireworks. It is a show you would not believe.
The show did not end until after midnight and while everyone was leaving I convinced Jennifer to stay for one more tequila while it was quiet and we could talk. I hope she does not say anything to Rikki as I like her and the kids are just kids. I am done with all my parties. Jennifer and I will have quiet dinners with maybe some of my snow bird friends, but that is all. She decided it was too late to catch a cab and stayed over night. Just another ordinary evening at Casa Laguna Lary.
Ooops. My comment to this post can be read at the end of the earlier one. Color my face red, not unlike wine.
ReplyDelete