PARROQUIA DE GUADALUPE

Although usually referred to as the Cathedral of Puerto Vallarta, La Parroquia de Guadalupe is a "parroquia" or parish, as it is not the seat of a Bishop.  No, I am not going crazy on churches.  One is just next to my home, but this one is probably the landmark of Puerto Vallarta.  Its tall spire with the crown can be seen all over the town.   So one day last week, my friend Nancy and I decided to take a little tour.  It is located just across the river off the Main Plaza.  Why it was stuck at the end of a tiny street and not on the plaza, or why the plaza wasn't built in front of it ? Well because it is Mexico !

The Virgin of Guadalupe is based on an apparition that appeared only before the lowly Indian peasant, Juan Diego.  She became the Patron Saint of Mexico.  How do you make a saint out of an apparition ?  You would have to ask the Catholic Church.  Supposedly this church was inspired by the famous Our Lady of Gudalupe in Mexico City.  The Festival of the Virgin occurs all over Mexico on the first twelve days of December.  The main procession starts along The Malecon near Woolworths (Yes, we do have a Woolworths with the same soda fountain lunch counter I remember as a child) and then proceeds to the church.  Actually the whole town participates with each school marching as well as many floats depicting the Virgin And Juan Diego. There are also native dancers in brilliant feathered costumes.  For twelve days the two streets by my home are impassable in the evening

The foundations were laid in 1903.  Later in 1917 it was decided to make it larger and the foundations were redone (not really usual for Mexico).  Construction began in earnest in the 20's but wars and other disputes stopped construction so it wasn't until the 40's that they started on the towers.  The famous crown of angels didn't go up until the mid 60's.  The crown was made of cast concrete, but an earthquake in 1995 destroyed it and a new metal one was designed.  I did the best I could to get a good photo of the twin towers plus the large one with the crown, but it is on this little side street.  The Main Square looks out across the bay through the also famous arches.  In the center is a gazebo (almost all plazas have a gazebo)  If you think you see Christmas decorations hanging there, you would be wrong.   They were left over from Independence day (always red, white and green).

The nave and altar piece are far more impressive than the simple one across the street from me.
Lots of carved (or plaster) statues and lots of gold leaf.  You may note the copy of the famous image of the Virgin brought to the Bishop by Juan Diego.  Because it was constructed over such a long period, each succeeding priest put their own stamp on it.  So some of it appears to be neoclassical, but the towers are more renaissance in style.  All in all it is quite beautiful.  Even a little side door has an ornate marble carved arch.

After our little tour, we walked a few blocks further down the Malecon to The Cheeky Monkey.
It is one of the oldest (and cheapest) watering holes along the Malecon.  Located on the second floor it has a wonderful view of the bay.  Two things I really liked are that they serve rolled up cold wash cloths (just like Japan) and the fact that beer and margaritas are only twelve pesos (less than one dollar).  It was a very pleasant charming day.  You should try it.


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