No, I am not talking about the earthquake in Japan (more on that later) Almost every day since I arrived here on the first of December, I have gone to "A Page in the Sun" coffee house for my daily latte. I discovered it when I visited two years ago. They not only made an "incredible" iced latte, but was just a wonderful place to spend time. There was a large canopy covering the entire corner on Olas Altos and M. Dieguez with maybe a dozen small tables. The food was pretty good too, but mainlly it was just a wonderful people watching spot. I recognized many other regulars. We didn't know each other, but eventually would acknowledge each other with a smile, a nod, or an "Hola".
One morning last week I found it closed and shuttered. Former clients were wandering around in a daze. There was a woman I recognized standing there who said she and her "ex" had been the owners and were forced to move. "She" would be reopening but not until October or November. What was I going to do? It was had been one of the highlights of my day.
Thus started my quest to find the perfect latte. I had already been to Starbucks, but it is well... Starbucks. It is also on the other side of the river on the main Plaza so it is frequented most by "day tourists" off the cruise lines. Shortly after I moved into my apartment a coffee shop opened right across the street. I had tried her latte and found it to be just awful. Then I thought, maybe I could train her. I went back and carefully explained (make a double expresso and add to the ice after the milk) Foam was a problem, she really speaks no English so when I told her I wanted foam on top, she handed me a lid. Then I said, "Leche, Pffft!" It was still awful.
The Cafe Vayan is right on the main square and has a large side walk area of tables, A sign said "espresso" but it is really a restaurant so I ordered breakfast with my latte. Both were lacking. On the way to the beach is another coffee shop in a sort of alcove. I carefully explained what I wanted, but I got a very ordinary latte in plastic cup. Nearby was another coffe shop but they only had sofas (a la Starbuks) with 4 short stools on the sidewalk (no tables) I decided I don't care what their coffe was like, I would not be happy there.
A friend who was visiting suggested Cafe San Angel just a block down from my old coffee shop. It too was on a corner and I was encouraged to see tall glasses. Again I explained what I wanted (with foam on top) It was all right but the foam costs an extra 5 to 10 pesos depending on who rings it up.
Then I spotted a former customer with a coffee cup in her hand. I stopped her to find out where she got it. She told me that the internet shop next to Cafe Vayan had the best coffee. Then she told me that the "ex" husband of the part owner I had spoken to was opening in a few weeks just aroound the corner off the main square. First I tried the internet shop. I expalined as usual and thought she understood, but before I could stop her she threw it all in a blender and served me a slushy. I then walked to the spot where the old shop was to open. Work was going on and then inside I spotted the old sign "A Page in the Sun" Coffee Shop leaning against the wall. My quest may be over, but I won't know until I get back from my trip. Meanwhile the old canopy has been torn down leaving just a bare corner where so many people had spent the day.
NOTE TO MY READERS: This will be my last posting until I return from Japan in mid April. I know "Japan" the Gods must have just learned of my eminent arrival.
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