TRAGEDY STRIKES

No, I am not talking about the earthquake in Japan (more on that later)  Almost every day since I arrived here on the first of December, I have gone to "A Page in the Sun" coffee house for my daily latte.  I discovered it when I visited two years ago.  They not only made an "incredible" iced latte, but was just a wonderful place to spend time.  There was a large canopy covering the entire corner on Olas Altos and M. Dieguez with maybe a dozen small tables.  The food was pretty good too, but mainlly it was just a wonderful people watching spot.  I recognized many other regulars.  We didn't know each other, but eventually would acknowledge each other with a smile, a nod, or an "Hola".
One morning last week I found it closed and shuttered.  Former clients were wandering around in a daze.  There was a woman I recognized standing there who said she and her "ex" had been the owners and were forced to move.  "She" would be reopening but not until October or November.  What was I going to do?  It was had been one of the highlights of my day.
Thus started my quest to find the perfect latte.  I had already been to Starbucks, but it is well... Starbucks.  It is also on the other side of the river on the main Plaza so it is frequented most by "day tourists" off the cruise lines.  Shortly after I moved into my apartment a coffee shop opened right across the street.  I had tried her latte and found it to be just awful.  Then I thought, maybe I could train her.  I went back and carefully explained (make a double expresso and add to the ice after the milk)  Foam was a problem, she really speaks no English so when I told her I wanted foam on top, she handed me a lid.  Then I said,  "Leche, Pffft!"  It was still awful.
The Cafe Vayan is right on the main square and has a large side walk area of tables,   A sign said "espresso" but it is really a restaurant so I ordered breakfast with my latte.  Both were lacking.  On the way to the beach is another coffee shop in a sort of alcove.  I carefully explained what I wanted, but I got a very ordinary latte in plastic cup.  Nearby was another coffe shop but they only had sofas (a la Starbuks) with 4 short stools on the sidewalk (no tables)  I decided I don't care what their coffe was like, I would not be happy there.  
A friend who was visiting suggested Cafe San Angel just a block down from my old coffee shop.  It too was on a corner and I was encouraged to see tall glasses.  Again I explained what I wanted (with foam on top)  It was all right but the foam costs an extra 5 to 10 pesos depending on who rings it up.
Then I spotted a former customer with a coffee cup in her hand.  I stopped  her to find out where she got it.  She told me that the internet shop next to Cafe Vayan had the best coffee.  Then she told me that the "ex" husband of the part owner I had spoken to was opening in a few weeks just aroound the corner off the main square.  First I tried the internet shop.  I expalined as usual and thought she understood, but before I could stop her she threw it all in a blender and served me a slushy.  I then walked to the spot where the old shop was to open.  Work was going on and then inside I spotted the old sign "A Page in the Sun" Coffee Shop leaning against the wall.  My quest may be over, but I won't know until I get back from my trip.  Meanwhile the old canopy has been torn down leaving just a bare corner where so many people had spent the day.

NOTE TO MY READERS:   This will be my last posting until I return from Japan in mid April.  I know "Japan"  the Gods must have just learned of my eminent arrival.

PROBLEMS IN PARADISE

My friend who lives in Japan once told me, "When you move to a foreign country, language is just the first barrier.  Language is definately a stumbling block (I will begin classes soon).  Yes, it is easy to order a meal or drink, or just point to something you want to buy.  But don't expect to find anyone speaking English once you leave the tourist areas.  I alway begin by apologize for not speaking a word of Spanish.  They simple talk faster and louder in Spanish.  I have to have them write down what I owe, I will never understand numbers and don't ever get in a cab without getting a price first.

After agreeing to rent my apartment (before signing the lease) my friend told me that I had to order cable right away.  At Telecable I used my credit card and prepaid six months to get 200 pesos off my bill.  The following day I found out that the apartment came with cable and internet, so I went back to cancel the contract.  Nothing had been installed, but I could tell even in Spanish that this was a major problem.  I left with what I thought was a cancellation and credit to my card.  When no credit arrived I went back.  It seems they don't do credits, but would have a check sent to them which I could pick up in another month.  However since I did not have my passport with me, I had to take the bus back again.  It has been almost three months and no check, no credit.

My first purchase for the apartment was the equipauli furniture.  There is a tiny shop on the road to Walmart where it is made.  I ordered 2 chairs and 3 tables and paid them half the cost.  It was to be delivered to my apartment the next week.  Nothing arrived, so I went back.  It would be another week.  I gave them my number and asked them to call me before they delievered.  One day after coming back from the beach, there they were sitting on the back of their truck.  No call, but it did arrive.

I was told that the water was drinkable, but decided to have bottled water delievered.  They stop at my friend's apartment three times a week (he drinks a lot of water) so I thought no problem.  Five times after mutiple calls I will get a bottle.  After lavishly overtipping I tell them to come back once a week.  "Si, Si, and then nothing.  Twice bottles have emptied themselves all over my counter and floor.  No one seems to know why.

I knew that dryers were rarer than dishwashers, but was pleased to see a brand new washing machine.  It took be a while to figure it out (caliente, tibia, fria, etc) but the clothes don't come out all that clean and no matter how much Downey Fresh I pour in, after hanging on the line for a day, they are stiff as cardboard.  It was a week before I realized that it only had a cold water faucet (so much for my settings)..

My friend arranged for someone to come with a truck to get my plants, pots and soil.  He showed up with a hatch back (the truck was broken that day).  How we got five palms and six other plants, plus four huge bags of soil and a few pots in that car I have no idea (there wasn't much room left for me).  As soon as I got the plants upstairs (in truth he carried almost all of them) I wanted to plant them.  When I finished the deck was covered with dirt, so after watering all the plants, I hosed off the deck.  I heard someone screaming downstairs, but that is not unusual here.  Then I noticed someone was pointing to me while shouting.  I went downstairs and found out that the drain at the end of the deck merely drops three floors to the sidewalk.  Not only did it stop all traffic on the sidewalk, but ran down  on the leather goods.  How did I know?

About once a month the electricity goes off for several hours.  Luckily it hasn't happened in the evening, but I did stock up on candles and a flash light.  I could go on, but you get the point.  Nothing is perfect, but it is warm and cheap.

NOTE TO READERS:
I couldn't think of any photos to go with this post and I wanted you to know I will be traveling for a month.  I may get one more posting done, but don't expect much before the middle of April.