UN DIA A LA PLAYA

It had been several weeks since I had made it to the beach.  It has been very hot and humid early this year.  My place is just five blocks to the beach, but the beach club I like is more like 14 to 15 blocks.  I never felt up to the long walk  (I never take cabs).  Plus, we have had some overcast days (a blessing) and some rain (though not enough),  So when friends of mine said they were driving to the beach, I asked to ride along.

We arrived early and the beach looked strange.  First there was almost no one on the beach although were a lot of boys surfing in the water.  Several of the restaurants and bars looked like they were not open.  You could see that during the night the water had reached all the way to the building.   The usual beach chairs and umbrellas were missing.  Upon arriving at our favorite, the waiter immediately came out and asked where we would like him to set up our tables and chairs.  We picked a spot about mid way to the water.  Then he brought umbrellas and carefully placed them so some of us got sun and some were in the shade.

It happened to be the voting day.  Forever Mexico has had a law that states that no alcohol may be sold or served from midnight Friday until midnight Sunday (the voting booths close at 7;00 Sunday night, so go figure).  But we were informed that at 4:30 on Saturday the law had been amended so that if food was served they could serve alcoholic beverages.  It seems that some of the expensive "all inclusive hotels" had complained.  Mexican Nationals tend to avoid these hotels so probably no one staying there could vote anyway. Someone said that the law actually stated that you had to have food in front of you in order to be served a drink (would a bowl of pretzels qualify?)   No matter, most laws in Mexico are ignored anyway.

A hurricane was supposed to have hit us several days earlier, but it went out to sea and passed us by.  We did not even get a sprinkle of rain out of it.  I have been told that the high waves occur a few days after a hurricane has passed.  This was no scientist who told me, but after living in a hurricane prone area for a few years, I have noticed that the high waves do come later.  The fifteen foot waves were a big attraction to the surfers that day.

Talk on the beach was also about the damage done to the Malecon the night before.  Now the Malecon is the most famous and popular street in Vallarta.  Several years ago, it was completely torn up and rebuilt with more pedestrian space and lots of planters with lush tropical plants.  For reasons known only to the Mexicans it was built several feet lower to the water.  It really is quite beautiful with dozens of bronze statues.  The remodeling included  replacement of the statues and they were all illuminated.  Shortly after it was installed someone sat on one of the statues during a light rain and was electrocuted.  They are no longer lit.  Then just a few months ago new lighting was installed above and in the sidewalk in front of many of the palm trees.  So far no one has been electrocuted.  We do not know yet what the storm did to these lights.  The photo included of the Malecon was sent to me and shows pieces of the wall broken up on the sidewalk.

Well we were happily seated and drinks were served.  I always order ice tea even though it is twice the price of a bottle of beer (no idea why).  I had just lit my first cigarette and settled into my chair when the owner came over and told us that we might have to move as a large wave was approaching.  Planning on just lifting up my feet, I leaned over to grab onto my sandals when suddenly I was underwater.  Everything including me was flowing out to sea.  Beach boys came from everywhere grabbing tables chairs and umbrellas. Maybe some one shouted "Save the Gringos !!"  They managed to grab my towel, glasses and beach bag, but my shirt was a lost cause.  The wave had traveled 20 or 30 feet and came right up to the restaurant.  There is a little wood deck in front and so they brought out regular chairs and tables for us.  They also replaced my ice tea at no charge.  I have no idea if they were able to reclaim my glass tumbler.  My cigarettes and lighter were also lost.  After that huge wave, the water receded back to where it was, but we all decided that none of us wanted to go back onto the sand so we stayed on the little deck.  Also our towels were soaking wet and covered in sand.

My friend lost both his shirt and shorts.  (For reasons known only to him he always strips down to a speedo).  Since he had no clothes he decided that we could not go anywhere else for lunch, so we might as well have it there.  I walked up and down the beach to look at other damage,  The restaurant next door had a sunken bar with no drain and they were busy bailing water out.  Dozens of palapas tops were scattered about the beach and I noticed one of them floating in the water.  There are a couple of pools where water and sand had washed over them.  It was an interesting day at the beach, but not what I expected or wanted.  Maybe next week.  By the way, all the photos were borrowed.  If I had taken my camera, it too would have been lost.  One has to wonder what would it be like if a hurricane actually hit us, since this one did not even come close.  The last direct hit was in 2001.  One thing I am sure of, I would avoid the beach for a few days.  

MAS PROBLEMOS CON AGUA

You may think that you have read this story before.  You would not be entirely wrong as the same thing has happened to me before.  This time there were a few new twists to the story so I decided to write it anyway.  Well, that and the fact that nothing of any interest has happened to me recently (for me this is the good news).  One evening (as is my usual) I am having a cocktail (or two) up on my terrace while listening to the beautiful singing from the choir at the church across the street.  Then a large black bird dived into my water tank.  NOT AGAIN !!  The only ladder I have is a short one so by standing precariously on the top rung and stretching up all I can do his touch my finger to the rim.  Sure enough there is no top on it.  The next morning I called Saul.

The first time it happened the lid was on my neighbors deck, Saul retrieved it but told me that the tank was full of leaves and bugs, it had to be cleaned out.  First the water was shut off at the street and then we drained the tank.  It took hours, then he needed a scoop to get stuff out of the water and then a towel to clean the inside.  He insisted that the lid could not blow off for it screws on tight, but it did.  So this time when I called him, he said that he was busy but would be there at noon the following day.  It was after 4:00 when he arrived.  This is Mexico.  Saul is the most honest trust worthy Mexican I know (and he is cheap) but he is not good about time.  When he arrived he said all four of his ladders where somewhere else.  Mine was of no use, so he said he would borrow one.  He was gone about half an hour and arrived with one just a foot taller than mine with the two lower rungs broken.  He could still not see the neighbors deck.  He said he would return the following day with a taller ladder.  It was two days later and almost dark.  He could see no lid so he when around to corner to the neighbors front door and found them home.

These are the second neighbors I have had since I lived here.  I have seen them maybe two or three times.  They are never home.  There are almost never any lights on at night.  I was told that they are two young Mexican boys who disco till dawn and sleep all day.  Fine with me, as I never hear a sound from them.  It is like living next to an empty apartment.  The owners nephew who lives on the other side of me told me that they are always late on their rent and he is sure they are moving out, but months later they are still there.  Not my problem.  Anyway when Saul returned he had the lid which the boys had taken inside their apartment.  Why?? were they going to try to pawn it?  They had to know it belonged on my tank.  Saul questioned them about how it could come off and they said that it must have been a friend of mine..  Sure!  First of all I have no ladder to reach it.  It was now so dark and we still had to drain the tank so he said he would come back later.

While all this is happening (and going back about one month) I was also having trouble getting my drinking water delivered.  Jesus my first guy was great always showing up shortly after I called him, but he quit to work for Coca Cola who owns the Ciel drinking water company.  Next was Alfonso, but he also quit,, then Jorge but he quit, and finally Ismael.  I asked the taco people to watch out for the Ciel truck, but nothing.  I asked my coffee lady and she said she had the same problem and just hailed them when one passed by.  I just happened to mention to David who runs my gym (the smiling Adonis, I call him)  To my amazement he called me later that day and said that a truck was on the way.  I asked for the guys cell number but as near as I could understand, he does not work my street.  Two weeks later I had the same problem.  There are never any Ciel trucks on my street anymore.  Now on the whole block counting both sides of the street there are only three Mexican families and myself who live here.  Maybe they never order water.  After all it costs 25 pesos for delivery and for 22 pesos you can buy a bottle at the tienda and carry it home.  I cannot.  After mentioning this problem at El Sofa cafe a couple whose name I could not remembered said that he would carry the bottle for me, and he did.  Thank God for the kindness of strangers.  But the problem is yet unsolved. The next time I ran out, I happened to notice the guy driving a scooter with an attached little cart with water bottles.  He was shouting "Agua !"  I screamed from my balcony, he stopped and I signaled two bottles.  They were only 20 pesos each.  Although the water is in a Ciel bottle, the sealed plastic top is not there, instead a piece of plastic tape is wrapped around it.  Where does this water come from, and is it really filtered water?  I decided not to think about it and so far I am okay.

When Saul returned to clean out the tank he kept yelling down that there was something else in the tank, but I could not understand him.  Finally he carried down a handful of peanuts.  PEANUTS !! I am allergic to peanuts.  Is someone trying to kill me ??  Even more puzzling is who knew I was allergic to peanuts?  I had never had the occasion to tell Saul.  I have never spoken to my neighbors and why would they want to kill me?  They cannot even afford the apartment they have.  The only person that for sure knows of my allergic is my best friend here.  I know he gets upset with me from time to time, but it would be a stretch to assume he broke into my apartment carrying a tall ladder, climbed up the roof, ripped the lid off and threw peanuts in it.  REALLY??  Of course it is possible that a bird picked up some peanuts (they are sold on every other corner) flew to my tank and stood on the rim while cracking the peanuts.  Like Mexico it remains a puzzle surrounded by mystery and wrapped up in an enigma   (that is not an exact quote, but you get the message).