The depot is across from the Mission San Juan and the architecture is similar. I could not find a plate that gave the date of the original structure. In the front patio is a very nice restaurant and in the rear is another more upscale restaurant where you dine in some of the old dinning cars. It is a short pleasant ride on Amtrax into Grand Central Station that takes a little over an hour.
Grand Central is now an historical monument built in 1939 (which makes it younger than I am, but unlike me, it has had several face lifts) The exterior is California Spanish, but the interior is more art deco. The restoration has preserved all the original features included the huge leather arm chairs in the spacious lobby. Inside is the old Traxx restaurant and now at the opposite side is the Traxx bar. On both sides of the lobby are beautiful patios for drinking, eating or just resting between trains.
The entire area is in the process of a complete renovation. But just one block away is the famous Phillipe's which has been in business since 1908. They serve the best french dip sandwiches in the world. The floor is wood covered in saw dust with long high tables and bar stools. You will find everyone from the very rich to the very poor sharing these tables every day. I had the pork, with a side of cold slaw, Kathie had a lamb sandwich. Sooo Good! We walked through Chinatown, but not much of interest and unlike the area around the civic center, it still looks like a slum. Lot of graffiti and litter. Even the old dragon gate at the entrance looked old and tired.
From there we went back toward the station to Olivera Street which is directly in front of the station. This dates back to the 1700's and the beginnings of the tiny pueblo of La Reina de Los Angeles. Many of the original homes and building are there to the delight of tourists. The street is more like an alley and is packed with stalls selling everything Mexican you can think of Facing it is a large open plaza where you will find music and people dancing almost every day. I felt like I was back in Mexico.
From the phallic looking City Hall there are now three blocks of parks and fountains climbing up to the Music Center. Tall glass towers line all the streets on either side. At the top of the hill is devoted to arts and music. The old Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, along with the Ahmanson Theater and the Mark Taper Forum. The newest addition is Disney Hall by the world famous architect Frank Gehrig. When he finished it many of the panels were very shiny stainless steel, but too many of the offices around it complained about the glare. So the entire building was sanded down to give the steel a duller look. Next door Eli Broad is building his own art museum across from MOMA (contemporary art). All around these building are beautiful parks, fountains with sky ways linking some of the buildings high above the traffic below. We missed the old Bradbury building which is also an historical monument. It is most famous for all the wrought iron work.
We then discovered the Metro system. We hopped on and it took us under Grand Central where you take an escalator up one floor to the trains. I was amazed at how beautiful and efficient it was.
We were told it went all the way into The Valley. There was no graffiti or even a gum wrapper anywhere. What they did with all the homeless winos and crazy people who used to inhabit the area, I have no idea. The old downtown area is now truly beautiful and well worth the trip. We hopped back on the train and after dropping Kathie off, I drove back to beautiful Laguna Beach.
Now, I am just very happy to be back in Mexico.
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